Showing posts with label Ireland 2013. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ireland 2013. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Sunday 9th June 2013

Lough Key House, Boyle, Co. Roscommon. Ireland
Arriving on Saturday evening, I slept the night in this comfortable country house B&B.  I had spent much of the afternoon in and around Carrick on Shannon showing Elisabeth the many places I had visited a few weeks previously when I attended there the John McGahern seminar.  In town I renewed my acquaintanceship  Orlagh Kelly at her splendid ‘Reading Room’ bookshop and to eat again in the superb ‘Oarsman Gastro Pub’ a few doors along the road.

This morning Elisabeth and I had to make an early start for the drive up to Larne from where we took the midday ferry for Cainryan, Scotland for me to begin my drive home to a long hot Greek summer while Elisabeth took off from Glasgow airport for the cool of her summer in Iceland.

Before the end of this year, however, Ireland, The Reading Room and Frances McDonagh at Loch Key house will see us both back again.


Saturday, June 29, 2013

Friday 7th June


Friday 7th June was the last day of a delightful  sojourn in the cottage I had rented for a month at Knockanoulty, Baltimore, Co. Cork.  In the evening Lisi and I left for an evening drive to the delightful Derrynaflan in County Tipperary where our host Sheila O’Sullivan welcomed us warmly despite our rather late arrival.

As with most B&Bs at which I stay on my travels it would have been good to have stayed longer at this lovely place but, if I was ever to reach home, I had to press on with my journey, adding Derrynaflan to my lengthening list of places to which I hope to return.

Thursday, June 6, 2013

5th June: Cathy Pentek and Sherkin Island

The day began with a visit to artist Cathy Pentek’s home in the country beyond Skibbereen.  Coincidentally the house was next door, albeit a kilometre or so further along and on the opposite side of the road, to the cottage we had rented last year when, in the course of our evening strolls,
Lisi and I must have strolled past Cathy’s house several times.  Cathy, surrounded by several dogs, was waiting at her
gate for us.  She led through her garden, where more dogs joined us as we all filed into the house to find yet more dogs occupying the living room settees and easy chairs.  I noticed too a number of resident cats and, as my eyes adjusted to the light, a fine black pig - house-trained Cathy told us - asleep in front of the television.  Cathy is an animal rescuer - a kind of latter day St Francis.  Shuffling for space with her animals we looked at several of Cathy’s charming paintings, bought one and commissioned some others then moved on into Skibbereen for coffee and cake at ‘Apple Betty’s’.

The Sherkin Island ferry leaves Baltimore at two-thirty.  We arrived there at one o’clock conveniently in time to enjoy my favourite Irish lunch, crab sandwiches washed down with a glass of Murphy’s Stout.  Sherkin Island, of which, during our few hours there, we saw not a lot is worthy of more time; on our next trip we shall take and earlier ferry.


The ruined fifteenth century abbey.


Wednesday, June 5, 2013

4th June: Further instruction


Today I spent another valuable day with Castletownshend watercolour artist Barry Dawkes.  Through the course of the day I painted these copies of two of Barry’s paintings picking up  as I worked a mass of useful hints and tips; the trick for me will be to remember enough of them to continue to make paintings as satisfying to me as those I made, with Barry at my elbow,  today. 

Essay to create mood.

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

3rd June: A bitty, but nonetheless pleasant, day

Mist lifting over the Ilen estuary, Baltimore.
The day dawned misty; overcast and cool.  At ten-thirty Lisi and I were seated in Field’s Café, Skibbereen, waiting to meet artist Cathy from whom we had hoped to commission a painting.  Shortly after eleven o’clock, having failed to meet her we left the Café.  We learned later that Cathy was there, sitting on an adjacent table with three other people but had not remembered that we had an appointment with her; we have made a new appointment with her, this one at her home, for a meeting on Wednesday morning.


After lunch the mist cleared to a sunny afternoon which we began with a drive to potter Mairi Stone’s studio on the lower slopes of Mt Gabriel to meet her an buy from her a few pieces of her delicate, beautifully decorated pottery.  On our way back to our cottage we stopped at Schull where Lisi shopped again in the craft shop ‘An Siopa Sli Bheag’ a delightful Aladin’s Cave of hand-made goods.


The afternoon ended as the morning had begun, with something of a failure; a planned ‘Sea Safari’ to hunt whales and dolphins had to be abandoned because, it being a Bank Holiday, there was no afternoon sailing.

The remains of the day; sunset at ten o'clock

Monday, June 3, 2013

2nd June: Sheep’s Head Peninsular, a tour and a tale.

It was from just such a ledge as this, on the the north coast of the Sheep's Head peninsular from which, in 1979,  author J G Farrell slipped while fishing.  A month later his body was recovered from the sea.
Friends  Barry and Margaret, whom we first met years ago in Finicounda, have come to Skibbereen with their caravan to visit Lisi and I.  Yesterday we spent our day with them describing in the car the perimeter of the Sheep’s Head Peninsular.  Through shifting swirling mists views, including those of adjacent peninsulas terminating to the South at Mizzen head and North at Dursey island, mysteriously presented and faded.

As we drove Margaret related the following tale:

“In the early hours of the morning Paddy was driving his car unsteadily and erratically along the road.  A Garda officer parked in a lay-by waved Paddy down.  Paddy stopped his car and lowered the window releasing into the officer’s face a rich decoction of pub.  
“So, to where is it you are off to at this time of the night Paddy?” the officer enquired. 
“Ah” replied Paddy, “I am away to a lecture.”  
“Indeed”, said the officer, “and what might be the subject of the lecture?”  
“Twill be a lecture on the evils of alcohol, tobacco and the keeping of late hours.” Paddy slurred. 
 “Oh yes”, said the incredulous officer, “And who is to be giving this lecture.”

“Why my wife of course!” said Paddy.

Saturday, June 1, 2013

1st June: Skibbereen Saturday Market; Schull; Brown Envelope Seeds Open Day.


A full day for Lisi and I began at Skibbereen Saturday Market, an excellent open air tented bazaar at which a good number of local crafts people and small, generally specialist food enterprises, join with traders of bric-a-brac and garden plants to provide a rewarding morning entertainment.



After an hour or so at the market we drove on to Schull which we found busy with Bank Holiday visitors and Schull Triathalon competitors and their supporters.


After a snack lunch in Balydehob we visited 'Brown Envelope Seeds' on their remote Ardagh farm where they were holding an 'Open Afternoon' and where I enjoyed their complimentary tea and delicious fresh strawberry and cream tarts.



May 31st: Mt Gabriel

An overcast morning spent largely in Skibbereen gave way to a brighter afternoon which allowed an exploration of nearby coast and countryside including a drive up Mt Gabriel a mountain behind Schull, a coastal village on the Mizzen peninsular which rears up from sea level to 407 metres.  There is on the mountain considerable evidence of mining, principally for copper.  The mines were reckoned to date from 1,500 b.c. but during the 1960s it was suggested that the mines were much more recent, nineteenth century, excavations.  Presently archeologists are again favouring the earlier dating.

The view North, the more distant stretch of water is Bantry Bay.
The Irish Air Traffic Control maintains two radar domes on the summit of Mt. Gabriel (407m); an adequate road to them is open to the public.  The views from the top, over the sea and considerably lower ground all around, are spectacular.


Thursday, May 30, 2013

May 29th: Abstract pix




May 29th: Pilgrimage to Ahillies

Adrigole, en-route for Ahillies, where I was able to seal watch for a while.
'The Copper Kettle', Castletown-Bearhaven, where I broke my
 journey for a Latté and a slice of delicious
Lemon Meringue Pie
Presently sparsely populated, Ahillies, far in the west of County Cork, where copper was mined from the Bronze Age until late in the nineteenth century, once had a population of over a thousand. 

Daphne du Maurier’s 1943 novel, ‘Hungry Hill’ , which she based on the family history of her friend Christopher Puxley, is set in this area.  ‘Hungry Hill’ is DuMaurier’s only novel to be set in Ireland, albeit an Ireland permeated with a strong Cornish seasoning; the men, women and children who worked the Puxley mines were largely imported from Cornwall, the hallmark setting of most of her writing.

















Lunch, a crab sandwich washed down with Murphy's Stout, at O'Neill's Bar, Ahillies.


Tuesday, May 28, 2013

27th May: Pilgrimage to Coomhola

Bantry Bay viewed from The Priest's Leap
In the autumn of 2011 Lisi and I spent two weeks in a cottage - it had once been the village shop - at Coomhola a few miles north of Bantry.  Behind Coomhola the mountains rise steeply to over a thousand feet above sea level.  Near ro the summit is the Priest's Leap named after a priest's mythical leap on horseback to escape pursuing soldiers.  It is the kind of  high, remote and windswept place that would inspire legend.

Looking North from the Priest's Leap

May 23rd - 25th; 2013 International Seminar on John McGahern

The drive, on Thursday 23rd May, from Baltimore to Carrick-on-Shannon to attend ‘The 2013 International Seminar on John McGahern’ was long but worthwhile; notwithstanding my confidence that I would enjoy the event, the experience far exceeded my expectations.  Packed into an evening and two full days were an eclectic bricolage of disquisitions, tours and impromptu social gatherings over evening meals at ‘The Oarsman’.

The seminar kicked-off on Thursday evening with a lecture by Professor of Irish History Roy Foster concerning the Irish ‘revolution’ and subsequent civil war, events that shaped McGahern’s life, consequently inspiring much of his writing.  Friday was a full day of lectures and readings.  First onto the podium were dutch writer Gerbrand Bakker and dubliner Claire Kilroy who each read from their books and answered questions from the audience, the most interesting of which to me was a question concerning the value of literary prizes; Bakker said he enjoyed the money; Claire Kilroy enjoyed the recognition that her Rooney Prize had brought her to the attention of British publishers and through them a much wider audience for her work.  Professor Nicholas Allen then delivered an incisive paper about McGahern and the Republic.  This rather full-on morning finished with a hilariously measured reading by Booker shortlisted author, Patrick McCabe, from his book, ‘The Stray Sod Country’.

After lunch Dr Heather Laird delivered an interesting lecture, ‘The Writer as a Reader: McGahern on Irish Literature’, which she illustrated with readings from McGahern’s writing ending, chillingly I thought, with this unpublished extract from ‘A Literature without Qualities’:
“I think what is happening - for economic, political and social reasons - is that the reader is predetermined in advance and that the contents of literature are imposed on the reader by means of things outside of literature.  On bookjackets, in newspaper articles, through publicity and blackmail of bestsellers, one passes over actual text; whatever value it might have is secondary.  Consequently, the reader thinks he knows in advance what he must find in a book, and whether or not he finds it has finally no importance whatsoever.  In my opinion it has to do with a plan of a repressive nature, contrived to do away with the aesthetic experience, which is after all an extreme form of liberty.”
Chilling perhaps, but very perceptive.

Heather’s act was an unenviable act to have to follow but professor Angela Bourke was well up to the task.  Her lecture was a commentary on David Thompson’s, ‘Woodbrook’, a memoir ‘much admired by John McGahern’, from which she read illustrative excerpts.  The lecture concluded with a screening of a short video clip cut from a fascinating late interview with David Thompson filmed at Woodbrook, in which he recalls his days there with his beloved Phoebe.

From the end of the day’s lectures to the six o’clock muster on the quayside for an evening river excursion there was little time for more than a private visit to the bookshop, ‘The Reading Room’ where I stocked up on books mentioned during the day.  The weather for the trip up river on the Shannon to Cootehall was perfect.  As the boat glided gently over the water past Woodbrook House author, and expert reader, Brian Leyden read passages from David Thompson’s book.  Particularly poignant for me was Brian’s reading, as the boat nosed into the creek in front of the house, of the passage from the book in which David Thompson recalls his first arrival at the house.  At Cootehall, where McGahern spent much of his later childhood, there was a convivially light break at Henry’s Bar while we waited for the coach to return us to Carrick where, with a group of participants and other visitors to the Symposium, I enjoyed an excellent dinner at ‘The Oarsman’.

Saturday was a far less mentally intense day.  It began with a coach trip to Aughawillan, McGahern’s birthplace, early childhood home and the resting place of his remains.  At the old school house, now a private house, where McGahern’s mother taught, Brian Leyden and
others performed appropriate dramatised readings from ‘Memoir’ and ‘Amongst Women’; the company then moved along the road to the entrance of a field for more excellently delivered dramatised readings.  In the Aughawillan village community centre we were entertained with tea and cakes and a short talk by Michael Harding, ‘Experience, Memory and Fiction’ followed by him reading from his most recently published book ‘Staring at Lakes’.
Back at in town, after a very hurried lunch, I joined an interesting guided stroll around ‘Historic Carrick’.  The last two sessions of the Symposium were an insight of the work involved cataloguing an archive, in this case John McGahern’s, by archivist Furgus Fahey followed by the final paper of the event, ‘McGahern and the Weather of the Times’, an erudite interpretation of McGahern’s literary legacy, by Mark Patrick Hederman, Abbot of Glenstal Abbey in County Limerick.


Being part of the Symposium was for me an inspiring and very enjoyable experience.  I met many warm and interesting people and had my mind stimulated.  Notwithstanding my several visits to ‘The Bookroom’, I also came home with a long list of books none of which I had hitherto heard!  If at all possible I shall certainly be back in Carrick for the 2014 Symposium. 

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

21st May; Judy's Goat Farm, Glandore, Drombeg Stone Circle, Coppinger's Court

A full day began with witnessing the construction of supports for and planting of beans and peas in rich black soil, the legacy of an old manure heap, at neighbour Judy's "Ardagh Castle Goat Farm".

Lisi and Linda planting, myself watching!
From the rich aromas of the goat farm to the similarly rich, if different, aromas of Kalbo's Café, Skibbereen for coffee and a delicious slice of in-house lemon flan, followed by a drive east along the Atlantic coast to Glandore.

Looking from Glandore towards the sheltered fishing village of Union Hall
Lunch at Glandore, continental style outside at a table on the pavement above the sea on the far side of the road from the restaurant.  Post lunch to the Bronze Age stone circle at Drombeg . . . .


. . . and on to Coppinger's Court.


During the early 1600s this amazing pile was built by Sir Walter Coppinger but he was able to enjoy his home here for a very short while - the building was ransacked and burned in the course of the 1641 rebellion and has since stood as a ruin.  Coppinger who, according to legend gained most of his considerable wealth by adroit use of the law, trickery, document editing and forgery, was not it seems one of the more pleasant  of our species.  He also earned a reputation for dealing swiftly and mercilessly with any opposition to his rapacious ambitions.

Our pleasant day ended much as it began with late afternoon tea and apple tart at "Apple Betty's Café" in Skibbereen.

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

20th May; with Barry Dawkes


I had hoped, this year, to find a painting holiday I might take to improve my watercolour painting skills.  I found, through the internet, a great number of suitable courses but none at venues or on dates convenient for me.  A after booking a cottage in which to to stay here in Ireland I contacted Barry Dawkes at 'West Cork Watercolour'.  None of the courses he had on offer for the summer coincided with the month I would be spending in Ireland but Barry kindly replied to my enquiry with an offer to make a day with him available to me.

I arrived at 'Crosslea', Barry's home and studio at ten o'clock on a morning which had begun overcast but was improving by the hour.  I was greeted with coffee and biscuits over which we chatted to allow Barry to get an idea of my painting history and aspirations.  We then plunged into some practical work practising basic watercolour painting techniques.  Armed with the knowledge of how to, I then began to make a copy of one of Barry's paintings.  Barry worked with me, making his own copy of his earlier painting, giving me tips as he did so on colour mixing and allowing me to closely watch him apply his techniques.  After an intense morning, during which I learned more in a few hours than I would have in years working alone (If ever!), we adjourned for an excellent salad lunch provided by Barry's wife, Kath.  After lunch Barry and I finished the paintings we had started earlier and began work on and finished a second.  I left the studio at six o'clock; happy and very satisfied  The two paintings I completed with Barry are better than anything I have yet produced, I shall be interested now to know whether I shall be able to maintain and develop my new found level of confidence and ability.


Sunday, May 19, 2013

Pilgrimage 1; Michael Collins

Since my first visit to Ireland in the autumn of 2011 I have become a zealous student of irish history.  Michael Collins was an important irish nationalist leader.  A signatory to the 1921 Anglo-Irish Treaty Collins subsequently found himself leader of the pro-treaty faction of nationalists in opposition to DeValera's anti-treaty faction.  In 1922 Collins was ambushed and shot by anti-treaty supporters.  This post is a record of my pilgrimages to Collins' birthplace, his home for one of his teenage years in Clonakilty and to the memorial to his death in a gun battle after being ambushed.
Michael Collins birthplace, Woodfield, near Clonakilty.
View from Collins' birthplace dwellings over the remains of the fine house built by his father and destroyed during the civil war of 1922.
The house in Clonakilty in which, from 1904 until 1905 Michael Collins lived with his sister Margaret.
Memorial to the fatal ambush of Michael Collins.
The roadside memorial purports to mark the site of the killing, by pro-treaty forces, of Michael Collins.

The Michael Collins website (http://generalmichaelcollins.com), however, has this to say concerning the monument: "The Collins monument stands on the right-hand side of the road from Newcestown to Beal-na-mBlath. It was erected in 1924 on two roods of land purchased by the Irish National Army. Why it was erected on that particular position is a mystery since it does not mark the spot nor even the side of the road where he died. Perhaps the engineers siting the monument decided that it would be unwise to erect it close to the stream on the left hand side and choose a site which allowed adequate space for military honours to be rendered to the First Commander-in-Chief.

The author's memory of the place in the early 1930's is of a narrow twisted road with a continuous strip of grass in the centre and a mud bank on the left-hand side close to the stream (the little river Noneen). There was very little tree or scrub growth. Since then, the Cork County Council have widened and surfaced the road. In the process they have removed the mud bank in places but, more importantly the curve in the road for a length of over 200 yards has been removed. It is important to remember that the road and road fence were differently aligned in 1922 when the Collins convoy passed that way."

Saturday, May 18, 2013

Saturday 17th; to the Airport.

Clonakilty
Another fine sunny start to the day.  During the morning a drive to Cork Airport to pick up chum Linda who will be staying nearby for the coming week.  Midway along our route we stopped for a while to explore Clonakilty; childhood home of Michael Collins (of whom there will be more on a subsequent post);  source of the celebrated Clonakilty black pudding and venue for the globally unique "Random Acts of Kindness Festival", a festival which aims to celebrate the welcoming and warm hearted nature of the Irish people as a whole. The catchphrase of the July Festival is; "Cut the Misery and Spread the Positivity".

Animal sculptures, Clonakilty




Thursday 16th; Mizzen Head

Close to Mizzen Head, Barley Cove beach and sand dunes were created by the tidal wave which followed the Lisbon earthquake of 1755.
Mizzen head is often claimed to be the most south westerly point of Ireland but it is not quite that.  Early in the C20th Marconi had telecommunications laboratories here and at other places on the Mizzzen Head peninsular including Crookhaven where I had an excellent crab salad and stout lunch.

Crookhaven
 

Friday 17th; Clear Island

Built late in the C19th n the site of an earlier beacon, the Baltimore Beacon marks the one of the hidden entrances to Baltimore Harbour; the other is marked by the lighthouse on Sherkin Island.
On this first dry, still and sunny morning since arriving here in Ireland almost a week ago I took a ferry to Clear Island.  Later in the year, when the sea is warmer than its present 7° there will be whales in these waters; today I saw only birds.  Clear island, Ireland's most southerly inhabited island, lies 13 kms off the mainland coast.


On the island I visited Ed Harper at his remote goat farm.  An engaging character, Ed came to Clear Island over thirty years ago from his native Manchester to establish his goat farm.  A master of caprine husbandry of which he is a willing teacher, Ed is passionate about goats.  He is also a collector and performer of folk songs.  Since he was three years old, Ed has been totally blind which, for me, makes his story extraordinary.
Ed Harper


Monday, May 13, 2013

Sunday 12th May - at home

Photographed Saturday 18th May when the sun came out.
After ten days of travelling, a day settling in to our comfortable temporary home was most welcome.  The foul weather did not matter, in fact, by deterring any desire to go out of the house it was probably an advantage.

10 May, au revoir to France - 11th May, hello again to Ireland!

From Quintin to the ferry port at Roscoff, from where I had a passage booked to Cork, is but a hundred kilometres or so and I had about nine hours in which to cover that distance.  I chose to drive directly to Roscoff and to spend what would be my last day in France for a while pottering about the sunny seaside town.

The huge ferry Brittany Ferries' 'Pont Aven' left on time at eight-thirty and, despite its size (42,000 tons) was soon pitching and rolling through a heavy swell and continued to do so throughout the night.  The restaurant on this ship was far and away the best in which I have eaten on any ship on which I have previously sailed.

The heavy sea did not prevent the Pont Aven from docking on time at Cork but unloading of vehicles, and passing through immigration and customs controls took almost two hours.  I eventually arrived, twenty minutes late, at Cork City bus station, where I had planned to rendezvous at eleven o'clock with Lisi who had travelled overnight by bus and ferry from London.



After a light lunch in Skibbereen and a tour of the supermarket to stock ourselves with food we checked in at the cottage we have rented for the next month and found it to be very comfortable and, in every respect, an ideal place for us to relax and 'take-five' on life.

Towards Baltimore